Trends in 1920s Makeup: Critical Analysis

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The 1920s, also known as the roaring twenties, was a time of a new carefree attitude. Women in this era were named ‘Flappers’. Flappers were known for their energetic freedom and how they embraced their lifestyle. Flappers smoked in public, drank alcohol and danced at jazz clubs. The 20s not only brought about a change in makeup trends and how to apply it but also a change in style. This included wearing short skirts, cutting their hair and wearing makeup in public. By the mid-1920s, nearly every pharmacy had makeup counters where women could sample powders, lipsticks and rouges before they bought them and took them home.

Face and Complexion

Face powders were the foundation of choice in the 20s. Shades shifted from cream to ivory then to a more natural hue. This was because many began to step away from wanting the palest complexion. It became socially desirable to be outdoors catching a tan after coco Chanel fell asleep outside in the sun.

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In order to keep a clear and smooth complexion, cold creams were used. This was a product that cleansed the face and removed any makeup. Cold creams would be applied all over the face at night, before bed. After cold creams, face powder was the next important product. This came in limited colours including, white, cream, pink and sandy colours. Face powders were applied with a powder puff and were often mixed with other colours to adjust the shade. Some women would use two different shades and use them in different areas on the face.

Eyebrows

Long and thin eyebrows were very popular in the 20s. In order to create a ‘doe-eyed’ look they were curved with a slight downward point at the inner corner of the eye. Many began to pluck their brows to achieve the thin desired shape and some even shaved off their eyebrows completely and drew them back on, using an eyeliner pencil.

Eyes

The classic, yet dramatic 1920s eye makeup was dark in colour and very smoky, using black and brown. Although green and blue eyeshadows were also popular for the eyes. Eyeliner would be added generously to the lash lines to add to the effect. For those who wanted something a little more subtle, a small amount of dark coloured face powder would be added to the eyelids.

Mascara

Mascara was a fairly new invention in the 1920s, along with eyelash curlers that were first used in 1923. These proved very popular.

Mascara could be purchased in liquid, wax or cake form. Maybelline was the industry leader when it came to advertising mascara.

False eyelashes were also popular in the 20s. For the final look, mascara was applied to them to accentuate the eye.

Rouge

Rouge was used to add some colour to the face. Rouge could be purchased in the form of a liquid, powder or paste. Powder proved to be the most popular after the invention of the compact. This was applied to the apples of the cheeks, using fingers – dabbing in circular motions. Rouge was left in a clear circle instead of being blended up into the cheekbones.

Lipstick

The metal lipstick tube was invented in 1915 by Maurice Levy. This was very popular within many beauty routines. The colours available at the time included different shades of red. The lip colour was usually coordinated with skin tone. Women with lighter skin tones often opted for a brighter, cherry red, whereas, women with darker skin tones wore a darker / deeper berry red.

A bright matte red was the favoured colour amongst women, whilst the most popular application was to add definition by adding a heart shaped ‘cupids bow’.

Influencing factors on makeup

Cinema had a really big influence on makeup and how it was worn in the 20s. Actresses such as Clara Bow, Gloria Swanson, Louise Brookes and Greta Garbo were admired and looked up to at the time. They were seen as glamourous and the faces of women.

Film fan magazines such as, Photo Play and Motion Picture Magazine followed the private lives of the film stars.

Cosmetic manufacturers were quick to see the lure of the silver screen beauties and started to use movie stars in adverts to promote their products. Cosmetic advertising in magazines increased dramatically throughout the decade, influencing women’s makeup choices.

Post War Bloom

After the recession of wartime, the economy of many recovered and by the early 1920s had started to bloom. Prosperity lead to an increase in manufacturing and therefore lead to a whole selection of new cosmetic products and brands becoming available.

Department store chains such as Woolworth’s, opened up across Britain, offering women the chance to see and try products. More affordable products began to appear on the market leading to an increase in the amount of makeup and skin care products that the average woman owned and used.

Style

One of the most iconic looks from the 20s was the bob hairstyle. At the beginning of the twenties, many women pinned their hair up in a faux bob, then midway through the era, when it seemed more socially appropriate, many cut their hair.

Dresses generally went to about mid-calf and women wore stockings under them. During the day, typically darker coloured stockings were worn and at night, it was acceptable for women to wear stockings that were one shade darker than their skin tone. Women embraced their bodies and stepped outside of their traditional roles by wearing short skirts.

During this era, jewellery also become very popular because of the availability of plastics that replicated jade and amber perfectly. As well as jewellery, accessories such as cloche hats, embroidered purses, feather boas, cigarette holders and fringed scarves were also worn.

References:

  1. Jessop, M. History of Makeup. Retrieved 22 April 2020, from https://makeup.lovetoknow.com/1920s_Makeup
  2. Editors, H. (2018). Flappers. Retrieved 22 April 2020, from https://www.history.com/topics/roaring-twenties/flappers
  3. Sessions, D. (2013). 1920s Makeup Starts the Cosmetics Industry- History. Retrieved 22 April 2020, from https://vintagedancer.com/1920s/makeup-starts-the-cosmetics-industry/
  4. Zlatko, I. (2019). 1920s Makeup Trends – WardrobeShop – Fashion Blog. Retrieved 22 April 2020, from https://wardrobeshop.com/wardrobeshop-fashion-blog/1920s-makeup-trends/
  5. Thomas, J. (2018). Foundation Tips From The 1920s To The 1960s | Glamour Daze. Retrieved 22 April 2020, from https://glamourdaze.com/2018/01/foundation-tips-from-the-1920s-to-the-1960s.html
  6. Cosmetics and Skin: Cold Creams. (2018). Retrieved 22 April 2020, from https://cosmeticsandskin.com/aba/cold-cream.php
  7. Skin Care Practices of the 1920’s | Lionesse Beauty Bar Reviews. (2015). Retrieved 22 April 2020, from https://lionesse.us/skin-care-practices-of-the-1920s/
  8. Becoming The Flapper: The Definitive Guide On Dressing 1920s – Recollections Blog. Retrieved 22 April 2020, from https://recollections.biz/blog/becoming-the-flapper-the-definitive-guide-on-dressing-1920s/

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